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Into the fray strode a master practitioner with a statement of his own: Giorgio Armani had a brand new bag. He called it, audaciously, La Prima. There had been purses before, but this was his first major foray into leather goods,

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Italian designer Giorgio Armani picked earthy tones for his latest womenswear collection at Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, before adding plenty of sparkle for dazzling evening wear.

Looking back, I might have done some things differently today, but I find myself surprised and sometimes even moved by the results of each collection.”

If this fall season has been remarkable for the return to the runways of fur, Giorgio Armani’s collection encapsulated one part of the equation that has led to that revival. A long coat worn over a patterned jacquard skirt and silky trousers crafted in chinchilla.

Giorgio Armani created an intimate salon for the fashion crowd to get an up-close view Sunday of the latest collection from his signature brand, an extravaganza of textures, craftsmanship and the designer's trademark elegance.

In a world off-kilter, there is something very soothing about the remarkable consistency of Giorgio Armani. Taking your seat at one of the little café tables Mr. A had installed inside Armani/Teatro—the house’s Tadao Ando-designed minimalist concrete and glass HQ on Via Bergognone—you know what you were getting without having to look at a menu: understated unstructured suiting and gossamer gowns shimmering like the Milky Way.

At age 90, Giorgio Armani has more than a few cards still up his sleeve. That was quite literally true in the Emporio Armani collection previewed on Thursday during Milan Fashion Week, where playing cards were the recurring motif.

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As the designer’s eponymous brand celebrates a half-century, he drills down to the essence.