Have you been in the Ceahlău Massif? In winter, this citadel of stone above Moldavia feels less like a mountain and more like an exposed nerve. The frost tightens across the plateau, dwarf pines bow under crystalline armor, and the first light arrives not gently but like a blade drawn across the horizon. Here, above the Bistrița Valley, Romania shows its austere face, unvarnished, unsentimental, absolute. In the Ceahlău Massif, geology reads like a submerged chronicle. The cliffs are conglomerat